Chrysanthemum Mittens – a free knitting pattern for ladies’ Norwegian mittens

Chrysanthemum Mittens, knit in Dale of Norway sport weight yarn, a free knitting pattern by Mary Ann Stephens

Ladies’ Chrysanthemum Mittens, a free knitting pattern – see below

You are welcome to copy this free knitting pattern for your personal use. You are warmly encouraged to use this pattern for charitable purposes.  Knitting instructors may use this pattern for classes.  However, this pattern is not to be sold and it is not to be used for commercial endeavors unless accompanied by a design credit to Mary Ann Stephens.

Please feel free to post any questions or comments regarding this pattern here on the blog. You can also reach me through my retail knitting website, Kidsknits, where you’ll find more of my patterns and kits – some for kids (obviously) but plenty for adults, too, including these other ladies’ mittens:

Amaryllis Mittens with norwegian, latvian and fair isle influences

Camellia Mittens with latvian, norwegian, fair isle and asian influences

Camellia Mittens

Tulip Mittens knitting design by Mary Ann Stephens with latvian, norwegian, fair isle and turkish influences

Tulip Mittens

Postwar Mittens, latvian-style colorwork in Dale of Norway Baby Ull yarn

Postwar Mittens

Chrysanthemum Mittens:

Chrysanthemum Mittens

Free mitten pattern, Chrysanthemum Mittens, a stranded Nordic design

Chrysanthemum Mittens, knit in either Heilo or Falk, available at discounted prices through the designer at!

Although I designed, knit and happily wore these last winter, I couldn’t bring myself to put them out on my site to sell the pattern and/or kit. It’s not that I didn’t want to share them with you. It’s just that, after I made the first (black) pair, I ended up with only 4 feet of the “natural” left and felt we had too close a call for making everyone happy with the kits. To allow for the potential gauge and yarn consumption differences across the population, I’d need to put an extra ball of natural in the kit. Unfortunately, I can’t do that for free. So, raise your hands if you think you’d like to pay 33% more for a kit, only to have a full ball of yarn left over. No one? Yeah, that’s what I thought. Me neither. Now, raise your hands if you don’t mind running out of yarn with just a couple of rows to go before completing a project. What, still no hands? Yep, that’s what I thought…me neither. You see the dilemma? So, what better way to solve such a dilemma than to turn the problem into a freebie, right? So, here it is, below. I’m leaving the yarn requirements in your lap. The cautious &/or loose knitters among you will want 2 balls of color “B” (the off-white / natural shown in each case here); the brave, daring and rather tight knitters out there might give it a shot with just 1 ball of “B”. Either way, I hope you’ll let folks here and on Ravelry know your thoughts and experiences.

By the way, if you haven’t seen it yet, you might want to read my previous blog post about these mittens. I used Hauk for that first pair. I had so little room for error at the end that it prompted me to think/write out loud about the possible reasons for the near-shortfall and to hypothesize about the same scenario using Heilo. I ended up making the teal/grean ones in Heilo. Interestingly, I did have about one foot more yarn left over with the Heilo, but I hardly think my little experiment with just two pair of mittens really constitutes a decent statistical sample. I tried weighing umpteen different balls of both Hauk and Heilo. They both really weigh in as pretty much the same, although each type occasionally has a ball with very minor variations (100ths of a gram)- variations that could, I suppose, translate to an extra foot or so of yarn here or there, but nothing more than that. Those little differences I encountered between the 2 yarn types could be either entirely diminished or greatly magnified by differences in other knitters’ tension. “Never mind!”

Since I made the Chrysanthemum Mittens (and blabbed about how much I love Hauk yarn), folks at Dale of Norway have decided to …hmmm, how should we say this…let Hauk “fade away out of production”. The folks at Dale US resisted using the D word (“discontinue”) with me. In fact, when I asked them about this last Spring, they were adamant that Hauk would be around, for it’s very successfully used in their ready-to-wear line. But more recently, it has become apparent that Hauk for knitters has not taken hold nearly as well as Heilo or Falk (superwash version of Heilo) and it’s a goner. It’s hard to compete with Heilo! So, I’ve been told Hauk will be (or has already gone) out of production. I’ll keep trying to stock it until the last ball is gone, but if you’re hoping for some, do try to get it while you can. But if you can’t, don’t despair: Anything you can make with Hauk can be made at exactly the same gauge with Heilo or Falk. Have fun and happy knitting!

Chrysanthemum Mittens
Sized to fit an average adult female hand; palm circumference = approximately 8 ½ “

Suggested yarn: (see my blog articles – you may want a 2nd ball of color “B”)
1 50-g ball of Dale of Norway “Hauk”, “Heilo” or “Falk” in Black 0090 for background color “A”
1 50-g ball of Dale of Norway “Hauk”, “Heilo” or “Falk” in Natural 0020 for foreground color “B”
1 50-g ball of Dale of Norway “Hauk”, “Heilo” or “Falk” in Barn Red 4137 for cuff detail color “C”
Suggested needles:
One set each of 5 double pointed needles in US size 2(3.0mm) and US size 4(3.5mm).
Gauge: 28 stitches and 28 rows = 4”/10cm in stockinette stitch with colorwork on larger needles.
Note: The ball band gauge for this yarn is 24 sts = 4”. That’s great for a sweater, but mittens call for extra warm fabric, so we’ll tighten the gauge up slightly to 28 sts = 4”. If you’re shooting for the same size, be certain to use whatever size needles get you the targeted 28 sts over 4”, or 7sts/ inch.
A, B & C = yarn colors; EOR=end of round; K = knit; K2tog = knit 2 stitches together; P = purl; rd(s) = round(s); rem = remaining; rep = repeat; SSK = “slip, slip, knit” i.e., slip 2 sts individually knitwise, then K those 2 sts together; st(s) = stitch(es)

Instructions: Using smaller needle(s) and A, cast on 60 sts, preferably using a cable cast on, although a long tail cast on will work fine, too. Place marker. Join and work circularly. *K 1 in A, K 1 in B, rep from * to end of rd.
Braid on right mitten: *P 1 in A, P 1 in B, continually crossing yarn for current st OVER yarn for previous st, rep from * to end of rd. *P 1 in A, P 1 in B, continually crossing yarn for current st UNDER yarn for previous st, rep from * to end of rd. Braid on left mitten: *P 1 in A, P 1 in B, continually crossing yarn for current st UNDER yarn for previous st, rep from * to end of rd. *P 1 in A, P 1 in B, continually crossing yarn for current st OVER yarn for previous st, rep from * to end of rd. Continuing for either mitten: K 1 rd in B.

Checkerboard trim:
Round #1: Break off A, join C, *K 2 in C, K 2 in B, rep from * to EOR. Round #2: *P 2 in C, P 2 in B, rep from * to EOR. Round #3: *K 2 in B, K 2 in C, rep from * to EOR. Round #4: *P 2 in B, P 2 in C, rep from * to EOR. Repeat rounds 1-4 two more times. Repeat rounds 1&2 one more time.
Change to larger needles.

Main body of mitten:
K 1 rd in B. K 1 rd in A. Work Main Chart, starting at lower right corner, always reading from right to left and knitting circularly. Each square equals 1 st to be knit in color shown, unless otherwise indicated (see chart legend.) Read “Thumb details” section BEFORE working thumb indicators on chart.

Thumb details: Once you’ve knit up to your desired thumb placement indicator on the Main Chart,
break off an approximately 18” long piece of scrap yarn, K next 11 sts with scrap yarn, slide 11 scrap
sts back to left needle, K same 11 scrap sts with colors indicated in Main Chart.
Mitten thumb stitches marked with temporary red scrap yarn
Complete Main Chart. Break off yarns, pull ends through remaining sts, tighten, pull ends inside and weave ends in place. Weave in any other loose ends except for scrap yarn used for holding thumb sts. With scrap yarn still in
place, using 1 dpn, pick up 11 thumb sts immediately above scrap sts by inserting tip of dpn under right
side of “v” formed by each st. Using another dpn, pick up 11 thumb sts immediately below scrap sts in
same manner.
Carefully remove scrap yarn. Working circularly, starting at lower right of Thumb Chart,
using colors indicated in Thumb Chart, pick up 1st st in Thumb Chart from right side of thumb opening
(option: twist base of side st before picking up to lessen any gap at thumb base); pick up next 11 sts in chrysanthemumchart
Thumb Chart from lower dpn; pick up 1 st at left side of thumb (same option applies); pick up remaining
11 sts in Thumb Chart from upper dpn. (Thumb sts can be distributed around as many dpns as you like.)
Continue with remaining rows of Thumb Charts, always working circularly and following Thumb Chart
indicators for shaping thumb top. Break off loose ends, pull ends through remaining 8 sts, pull ends to inside
and weave in place. Make 2nd mitten in same manner except be certain to work the 11 scrap sts and the
thumb on the OTHER side!! (Yes, that is said from experience!) Wash finished mittens and block, if necessary.


Chrysanthemum Mittens knitting pattern by Mary Ann Stephens

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Two Strands, a stranded knitting group on Ravelry, led by Mary Ann Stephens

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About twostrands

Knitting designer, retailer and instructor specializing in Fair Isle and Nordic design. Website = Blog =
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18 Responses to Chrysanthemum Mittens – a free knitting pattern for ladies’ Norwegian mittens

  1. Pingback: Lime & Violet’s Daily Chum » Blog Archive » Free Pattern: Chrysanthemum Mittens

  2. Harper says:

    I’ve been making small forays into stranded knitting and wanted to find a pattern that was more complex but didn’t scare me off completely. Your pattern is lovely and doesn’t appear to have any scary long floats. And I can’t find the mittens I made last year so I need a new pair! Thanks so much for providing this pattern to us.

  3. Katie says:

    Following the pattern, the columns in the checkerboard pattern is only five squares, but in you pictures there are seven. Did you increase it on purpose, unhappy with the pattern, or is there a mistake in the written instructions?

  4. twostrands says:

    Katie, the pattern is correct as written. It seems you have misinterpreted the instructions. I’ll walk you through them, but first, promise me you will focus on the meanings of the words “repeat” and “more”.

    There are 2 rows to each checkerboard square; there are 4 rows and, therefore, 2 checks, to each rendition of the 4-row checkerboard trim instructions. The first time you work those 4 rows, you get 2 checks. You are then told to “Repeat rounds 1-4 two more times” – that will give you 4 more checks, for 6 checks so far. Finally, you are told to “Repeat rounds 1 & 2 one more time” and that will give you one last check for a grand total of 7 checks, both in the pattern and on my mittens. And, by the way, I’m quite happy with them.

  5. john says:

    Great pattern. Did I miss a link to a full-sized image of the charts? I can’t read the legend in the tiny in-line image.
    Thanx for the great pattern!

    • twostrands says:

      I think that chart was added before the clickable photos feature was available. You could have gotten around that, at least somewhat, by copying the image into something where you could enlarge it, like Word. But, now that you mention it, we can do better than that! I’ve just edited the image – simply removed the old image, reinserted the same image and, voila, it’s clickable. Have fun!

  6. john says:

    Having a blast knitting these! Started ’em a while back, along with a few other projects, and just picked ’em back up last night. Soooo fun to watch the pattern develop. I’ll definitely have to knit at least a couple pairs, just to play with color.
    Thank You!

  7. Pingback: Half Way to Norway! «

  8. Ellen says:

    Thank you so much for this pattern! These mittens are the prettiest things I’ve ever made!

  9. cari says:

    In your materials section you mention Size 2 needles and Size 4 needles. When do I use them.

    • twostrands says:

      Hmmm, not a bad question, although if you read through the pattern first, you’ll see, in boldface, that right after the checkerboard trim, just before starting the main portion of the mitten, you’re instructed to “Change to larger needles.”
      Knowing that, you could assume that we begin with the smaller needles. But, you shouldn’t have to assume these things. Sorry about that! I’ve added the words “using smaller needle(s)” to the beginning, so that it’s clear from the start, as it should be. Thanks for raising that point!

  10. Janet says:

    Hi there, I’m about to start your mitts and I’ve got a question about the braid. Is this the same as a lateral braid? Not sure what I’m doing when “crossing yarn for current st over yarn for previous st” and visa versa. Chalk it up to my left handed dyslexia 🙂

    • twostrands says:

      A “lateral braid”?? Hmmm, well, it does lie laterally (as you can see in the photo), but to my knowledge, there is no official, or even commonly agreed upon, knitting term “lateral braid”, so I can’t give you a simple “yes” or “no” there. As for the second part of your question, if your “not sure” what you’re doing when “crossing yarn for current st over yarn for previous st”, as long as you’re doing what it literally says, don’t worry, you’ll be fine. You’re alternating colors with each st at that point, and it simply means that you continue to bring the new color up over the old color. (Normally, we’d keep them in their positions, and just strand along, but we want these strands of the front (since we’re purling) to angle, so they’re crossing / slanting each time.) They’ll end up getting twisted along the way, but that’s a necessary part of making the braid. If you can feed the twists in the yarn far enough down away from your work and get through the entire braid / crossing round without untangling them, it will pay off in the end, since they cross in the other direction and thereby UNtangle, all on their own, as you work the second braid / crossing round.

  11. Berit W.Moe says:

    Is it possible tol link your free patterns to Ravelry?Or JKnit?I wanted to ad the Chrysantemim mittens to JKnit…..

  12. Lynnea Yancy says:

    When I look at the chart I get confused because of the single row of stitches going up in the air on the right sides. What does that mean?? How am I suppose to interpret them?

    • twostrands says:

      I suspect you mean a single COLUMN – not ROW – of stitches, yes? That column corresponds to the continuous dotted line that goes along both sides of the hand, from the top of the cuff to the top of the point; there’s a matching dotted line on each side of the thumb, too. Decreases are made on each side of those dotted lines, but the stitches within the dotted line/column themselves, while they do consistently alternate in color, they are never decreased – they continue to the top, unbroken…just as the chart does. They become a real landmark as you’re knitting – they’re right there at the beginning of each half (front & back). While you might think it’s somewhat confusing, if you haven’t used a chart like this before, I think that, once you get into it, it’s actually more helpful this way. It becomes very obvious that you knit your unbroken, dotted sideline stitch first, then work the respective front or back. When you’re working the pointed sections, you’ll knit your dotted sideline stitch, then work an SSK, you’ll knit across to the far side of the chart, ending with a K2tog, then you’ll repeat the same process for the back of the mitten.

      It would have been perfectly feasible to draft the chart so that the dotted side line angled to the left, lying immediately to the right of the stepped SSK’s, rather than continued vertically. But, this way, you have a much clearer reminder of what’s going on and it more closely represents the mittens architecture.

      Give it a try!

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