You are welcome to copy this free knitting pattern for your personal use. You are warmly encouraged to use this pattern for charitable purposes. Knitting instructors may use this pattern for classes. However, this pattern is not to be sold and it is not to be used for commercial endeavors unless accompanied by a design credit to Mary Ann Stephens.
Please feel free to post any questions or comments regarding this pattern here on the blog. You can also reach me through my retail knitting website, Kidsknits, where you’ll find more of my patterns and kits – some for kids (obviously) but plenty for adults, too, including these other ladies’ mittens:
Although I designed, knit and happily wore these last winter, I couldn’t bring myself to put them out on my site to sell the pattern and/or kit. It’s not that I didn’t want to share them with you. It’s just that, after I made the first (black) pair, I ended up with only 4 feet of the “natural” left and felt we had too close a call for making everyone happy with the kits. To allow for the potential gauge and yarn consumption differences across the population, I’d need to put an extra ball of natural in the kit. Unfortunately, I can’t do that for free. So, raise your hands if you think you’d like to pay 33% more for a kit, only to have a full ball of yarn left over. No one? Yeah, that’s what I thought. Me neither. Now, raise your hands if you don’t mind running out of yarn with just a couple of rows to go before completing a project. What, still no hands? Yep, that’s what I thought…me neither. You see the dilemma? So, what better way to solve such a dilemma than to turn the problem into a freebie, right? So, here it is, below. I’m leaving the yarn requirements in your lap. The cautious &/or loose knitters among you will want 2 balls of color “B” (the off-white / natural shown in each case here); the brave, daring and rather tight knitters out there might give it a shot with just 1 ball of “B”. Either way, I hope you’ll let folks here and on Ravelry know your thoughts and experiences.
By the way, if you haven’t seen it yet, you might want to read my previous blog post about these mittens. I used Hauk for that first pair. I had so little room for error at the end that it prompted me to think/write out loud about the possible reasons for the near-shortfall and to hypothesize about the same scenario using Heilo. I ended up making the teal/grean ones in Heilo. Interestingly, I did have about one foot more yarn left over with the Heilo, but I hardly think my little experiment with just two pair of mittens really constitutes a decent statistical sample. I tried weighing umpteen different balls of both Hauk and Heilo. They both really weigh in as pretty much the same, although each type occasionally has a ball with very minor variations (100ths of a gram)- variations that could, I suppose, translate to an extra foot or so of yarn here or there, but nothing more than that. Those little differences I encountered between the 2 yarn types could be either entirely diminished or greatly magnified by differences in other knitters’ tension. “Never mind!”
Since I made the Chrysanthemum Mittens (and blabbed about how much I love Hauk yarn), folks at Dale of Norway have decided to …hmmm, how should we say this…let Hauk “fade away out of production”. The folks at Dale US resisted using the D word (“discontinue”) with me. In fact, when I asked them about this last Spring, they were adamant that Hauk would be around, for it’s very successfully used in their ready-to-wear line. But more recently, it has become apparent that Hauk for knitters has not taken hold nearly as well as Heilo or Falk (superwash version of Heilo) and it’s a goner. It’s hard to compete with Heilo! So, I’ve been told Hauk will be (or has already gone) out of production. I’ll keep trying to stock it until the last ball is gone, but if you’re hoping for some, do try to get it while you can. But if you can’t, don’t despair: Anything you can make with Hauk can be made at exactly the same gauge with Heilo or Falk. Have fun and happy knitting!
Sized to fit an average adult female hand; palm circumference = approximately 8 ½ “
Suggested yarn: (see my blog articles – you may want a 2nd ball of color “B”)
1 50-g ball of Dale of Norway “Hauk”, “Heilo” or “Falk” in Black 0090 for background color “A”
1 50-g ball of Dale of Norway “Hauk”, “Heilo” or “Falk” in Natural 0020 for foreground color “B”
1 50-g ball of Dale of Norway “Hauk”, “Heilo” or “Falk” in Barn Red 4137 for cuff detail color “C”
One set each of 5 double pointed needles in US size 2(3.0mm) and US size 4(3.5mm).
USE WHATEVER SIZE YOU NEED TO OBTAIN THE GAUGE, BELOW!
Gauge: 28 stitches and 28 rows = 4”/10cm in stockinette stitch with colorwork on larger needles.
Note: The ball band gauge for this yarn is 24 sts = 4”. That’s great for a sweater, but mittens call for extra warm fabric, so we’ll tighten the gauge up slightly to 28 sts = 4”. If you’re shooting for the same size, be certain to use whatever size needles get you the targeted 28 sts over 4”, or 7sts/ inch.
A, B & C = yarn colors; EOR=end of round; K = knit; K2tog = knit 2 stitches together; P = purl; rd(s) = round(s); rem = remaining; rep = repeat; SSK = “slip, slip, knit” i.e., slip 2 sts individually knitwise, then K those 2 sts together; st(s) = stitch(es)
Instructions: Using smaller needle(s) and A, cast on 60 sts, preferably using a cable cast on, although a long tail cast on will work fine, too. Place marker. Join and work circularly. *K 1 in A, K 1 in B, rep from * to end of rd.
Braid on right mitten: *P 1 in A, P 1 in B, continually crossing yarn for current st OVER yarn for previous st, rep from * to end of rd. *P 1 in A, P 1 in B, continually crossing yarn for current st UNDER yarn for previous st, rep from * to end of rd. Braid on left mitten: *P 1 in A, P 1 in B, continually crossing yarn for current st UNDER yarn for previous st, rep from * to end of rd. *P 1 in A, P 1 in B, continually crossing yarn for current st OVER yarn for previous st, rep from * to end of rd. Continuing for either mitten: K 1 rd in B.
Round #1: Break off A, join C, *K 2 in C, K 2 in B, rep from * to EOR. Round #2: *P 2 in C, P 2 in B, rep from * to EOR. Round #3: *K 2 in B, K 2 in C, rep from * to EOR. Round #4: *P 2 in B, P 2 in C, rep from * to EOR. Repeat rounds 1-4 two more times. Repeat rounds 1&2 one more time.
Change to larger needles.
Main body of mitten:
K 1 rd in B. K 1 rd in A. Work Main Chart, starting at lower right corner, always reading from right to left and knitting circularly. Each square equals 1 st to be knit in color shown, unless otherwise indicated (see chart legend.) Read “Thumb details” section BEFORE working thumb indicators on chart.
Thumb details: Once you’ve knit up to your desired thumb placement indicator on the Main Chart,
break off an approximately 18” long piece of scrap yarn, K next 11 sts with scrap yarn, slide 11 scrap
sts back to left needle, K same 11 scrap sts with colors indicated in Main Chart.
Complete Main Chart. Break off yarns, pull ends through remaining sts, tighten, pull ends inside and weave ends in place. Weave in any other loose ends except for scrap yarn used for holding thumb sts. With scrap yarn still in
place, using 1 dpn, pick up 11 thumb sts immediately above scrap sts by inserting tip of dpn under right
side of “v” formed by each st. Using another dpn, pick up 11 thumb sts immediately below scrap sts in
Carefully remove scrap yarn. Working circularly, starting at lower right of Thumb Chart,
using colors indicated in Thumb Chart, pick up 1st st in Thumb Chart from right side of thumb opening
(option: twist base of side st before picking up to lessen any gap at thumb base); pick up next 11 sts in chrysanthemumchart
Thumb Chart from lower dpn; pick up 1 st at left side of thumb (same option applies); pick up remaining
11 sts in Thumb Chart from upper dpn. (Thumb sts can be distributed around as many dpns as you like.)
Continue with remaining rows of Thumb Charts, always working circularly and following Thumb Chart
indicators for shaping thumb top. Break off loose ends, pull ends through remaining 8 sts, pull ends to inside
and weave in place. Make 2nd mitten in same manner except be certain to work the 11 scrap sts and the
thumb on the OTHER side!! (Yes, that is said from experience!) Wash finished mittens and block, if necessary.
CLICK ON THE CHART TO SEE A LARGER, CLEARER VERSION!